加油爬啊
又到了一年一度的Piolet d'Or时间，但这次显得格外不平常。
此次共有三组人获奖。Special mention给了西班牙的Silvia Vidal，为了表彰她几十年来一系列super纯粹风格的大岩壁独攀。而常规奖项给了两组攀登，第一组为Ethan Berman (USA)和Uisdean Hawthorn (UK)的Running in the Shadows (2300m, US VI, M6 AI5 A0), Mount Robson (3,954m) Emperor (northwest) Face。
第二组为Pierrick Fine和Symon Welfringer, Revers Gagnant (ca 2,500m, M4+ WI4+ 90°), south face and southwest ridge of Sani Pakkush (6952m)。
单看数据，两组常规奖项的攀登不是特别吸引我。一组虽然难度和长度都很够，但是海拔太低；另一组难度（90度）、长度（2500m还有什么不满足）、海拔（6000m够了，这奖可喜欢6000m了）、山峰（新路线，第二登）……都非常好，放在往年也是稳稳入选并且是夺奖热门，但能否得奖，就看别的攀登质量如何了，按我的印象，这种攀登在往年的significant ascents里不少。而今年看向significant ascents，惊艳的不多（值得一提的是中国人的“再见快乐”名列一席）。也不知道是为什么，或许就是疫情的影响吧，好多地方不能去，好多地方不让出去，登山者的计划都被打得乱乱的，就像我一样。记得某天看到K6 central新路线，顺便连登了K6 west，还是一对夫妇，我就预言它一定能进significant ascents，最后真的进了。
但是这个special mention真的太牛了。Silvia Vidal在许多地方的许多偏远岩壁以完全的自主风格solo攀爬了许多路线，我随便一说吧。Life is Lilac (870m, 6a A4+), Shipton Spire, Pakistan (21 days alone on the face, 2007); Naufragi (1,050m, 6a+ A4+), Raldang, India (25 days alone on the face, 2010); Espiadimonis (1,500m, 6b A4), Serrinia Avalancha, Chile (two weeks fixing the first 350m, then 32 days on the face, a total of nearly two months alone in this wild region, 2012); Un Pas Més (530m, 6a A4+), Xanadu, Alaska (36 days of ferrying equipment - 540km of walking - both up to and down from the face, and 17 days alone on the wall, 2017), and most recently Sincronia Magica (1,180m, 6a+ A3+), El Chileno Grande, Chile (16 days were spent load carrying, in and out, and after fixing the initial 180m, 33 days were spent alone on the wall, 2020).
她的这些攀岩路线长、极其危险（A4意味着连续十几米的保护点很有可能无法承受坠落，坠落重伤风险高，A4+更是自杀线路）、时间长、风格极其纯粹。她在超级偏远的地区寻找大岩壁，装备一运就是十几天，一走就是几百公里，岩壁上一呆就是一个月。这不仅比那些靠氧气向导路绳背夫爬珠峰的人高得不知道哪去了，还令许许多多寻找接近性好的、雇佣背夫与马匹运装备去大本营的专业攀登者汗颜。她不仅这样爬，还一次次这样爬，超过20年。Piolet d'Or评价她：
The Piolets d'Or promotes progressive mountaineering, alpine-style, doing more with less. Our awards reflect this ethos. But it also champions the spirit of exploration, a high level of commitment and self-sufficiency.
In this respect the Piolets d'Or would like to acknowledge the huge contribution to solo big wall climbing for more than two decades by Silvia Vidal. This Catalan is well-known for her impressive feats of endurance and hard aid climbing on remote big walls around the world. Her most notable ascents have been achieved mainly in total autonomy: entirely alone, no radio, no mobile, no GPS, no weather forecasts, no communication. Drilling tends to be minimal, and always by hand.
Piolet d'Or是阿式攀登的最高奖，但它同时也极其看重攀登的独创性、纯粹性、突破性。天下攀登都是一家，只要是这样的攀登都有可能得到Piolet d'Or的认可。Piolet d'Or无疑是被Silvia Vidal感动了。完全自主的胶囊式攀登，一个人，没有无线电电话GPS，没有天气预报，用手运最少的足够的物资……这给任何一个攀登者都是无法想象的。现代攀登早已把现代科技运用到炉火纯青，即使是注重纯粹的阿式也经常会使用天气预报、GPS、卫星电话等装备。她的大岩壁攀登比阿式还纯粹，令一向骄傲于纯粹性的阿式攀登汗颜。向Silvia Vidal致敬。