isomorphismseven

These days I saw that significant ascents of 2019 was updated on Piolet d’Or website. I will choose some that interests me.

The most exciting ascent is of course Márek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák's UFO line. Chamlang (7240m), northwest face, 2500m, WI5, M6, 4 bivouacs (May). I heard of this ascent much earlier. The most striking thing is that it was graded ABO. Besides, Márek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák are far beyond well-known. In 2018, without any doubt they won a Piolet d’Or by their Satisfaction, an Alpine climbing of Gaserbrum I's southwest face. New route, 8000m+, M7, ED+. These words secured the prize for them. Now they are back with UFO.

By the way, another ascent made by Márek Holeček and Radoslav Groh of Huandoy Norte in Peru is in the list, too. East face, Boys 1970, 1,200m, ED+ WI6 M6, partially new route and different conditions. Two bivouacs (August). This means that Márek Holeček has 2 ascents in that list.

Another ascent drew my eyes. Two Russian alpinists, Sergey Nilov and Dmitry Golovchenko, spent nearly 3 weeks attempting a new route in alpine-style up the unclimbed east face of Nepal's Jannu/Kumbhakarna (7710m). Although not to summit, they made the first ascent of east face to southeast ridge. Unfinished Symphony, ca 2500m, ED, 80+°, 12 bivouacs (March). Note that these two are old Piolet d’Or winners, too.

Dili Xiati, Kang Hua, Li Zongli's ascent of Bogda V (5216m), northwest face, 1,300m, TD+, AI3+ 5.10+ M5 75°, one bivouac (August) is the only ascent by Chinese climbers this year. Li Zongli taught me many things during my ice climbing training period.

Hansjörg Auer, David Lama and Jess Roskelley's ascent of Howse Peak(3295m) in Canada,ended in a tragedy. All of them died in descent, resulting in the sad loss of 2 Piolet d’Or winners in 2019. This ascent is enlisted. East face, 1,345m, WI6 (+?). In one day (April). The stories of Hansjörg Auer and David Lama were one of my first close knowledge of mountaineering.